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SKI RANDO LEGERS 18-19

Black power at the top of Everest : the bet was won!

Black power at the top of Everest : the bet was won!

They wanted to be the “first all-black expedition” to climb Everest. It’s a done deal. Six members of the American Full Circle Everest expedition (out of nine in total) reached the summit of the roof of the world on Thursday, May 12th, around noon....

Teaser: 2d edition of Chamonix Film Festival is coming soon!

Teaser: 2d edition of Chamonix Film Festival is coming soon!

Here is the teaser for the second edition of Chamonix Film Festival! A not-to-be-missed event about mountain cinema. The major productions of the year (Beyond the Summits, Torn, etc.) will be screened from the 14th to the 19th of June 2022, as well as more traditional...

Seb Bouin sends DNA, possibly the second 9C in climbing history!

Seb Bouin sends DNA, possibly the second 9C in climbing history!

On the 24th of April, Frenchman Seb Bouin achieved an incredible feat: to complete his long-standing project, DNA, in the Verdon Gorge (France). Seb Bouin has spent more than 150 days trying this extreme route before. This performance of unprecedented difficulty is...

Running across the Hielo

Running across the Hielo

Ten years ago, the Brazilian ultrarunner Fernanda Maciel attempted to run the Circo de los Altares (Patagonia) in one go, but the weather hampered her dream. She returned with ultrarunner Kaytlyn Gerbin this time. They tackled the wild and remote Hielo Continental...

Sébastien Berthe free climbs El Capitan in 17 hours

Sébastien Berthe free climbs El Capitan in 17 hours

After having assured and supported Soline Kentzel in her ascent of Golden Gate, the climber Sébastien Berthe wanted to add a new cross to his list of achievements on El Capitan. And it was El Nino, the route of the Huber brothers, that he repeated in record time....

What is left of Ueli?

What is left of Ueli?

The passing is often remembered as a surprisingly distant fact. “Five years already!” one might wonder when remembering the death of Ueli Steck on April 30, 2017. On that day, the hurried mountaineer stumbled at Nuptse.  Yet I must confess that it is the...

Climbing Mont Blanc could become more difficult

Climbing Mont Blanc could become more difficult

On the normal route of Mont Blanc, at the level of the Bosses ridge, large crevasses have appeared. These crevasses could have a lasting impact on the normal route to Mont Blanc by significantly increasing its commitment and difficulty. Scientists went to the site to...

DRUS: Raphaël Georges climbs the Lesueur route solo

DRUS: Raphaël Georges climbs the Lesueur route solo

From 21 to 23 March, the young mountain guide Raphaël Georges, 31 years old, made the first solo ascent of the Lesueur route (1952, 900 m, M7, 6b), on the north face of the Drus. Starting from the valley, this strong rock climber free-climbed all the difficulties of...

First ski descent on Aiguille des Lacs by Paul Bonhomme

First ski descent on Aiguille des Lacs by Paul Bonhomme

It’s a new steep descent for Paul Bonhomme. Mountain guide by profession but a great lover of slopes and wild mountains, Paul Bonhomme skied the East face of the Aiguille des Lacs, a summit located in the Valpelline. For those who don’t know this...

Why Marc Batard, 70 years old, is back on Everest. Again.

Why Marc Batard, 70 years old, is back on Everest. Again.

In 1988, Marc Batard became the Everest sprinter, the first man to climb the Roof of the World in less than 24 hours, without bottle oxygen. A record that still stands. 34 years later, we went to meet Marc Batard at his home, before his departure for Everest, which he...

Tengkangpoche’s movie by Tom Livingstone and Matt Glenn

Tengkangpoche’s movie by Tom Livingstone and Matt Glenn

In October 2021, British climbers Tom Livingstone and Matt Glenn made the first ascent of the North-East Pillar of Tengkangpoche (6,487 metres) in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Tom told us about it in our pages*, and the video of the feat in the route called Massive...

Passion according to Matthias

Passion according to Matthias

His Top 100 ice climbs will make many mountaineers dream. But Matthias Scherer is not just any climber: for twenty years he has been tracking down the most beautiful icefalls on the planet, from the Hautes-Alpes to Canada. He has set up his winter base camp in Norway,...

Heavenly Trap : Marek Holecek and Radoslav Groh Baruntse’s Video

Heavenly Trap : Marek Holecek and Radoslav Groh Baruntse’s Video

This video shows Czech pro-alpinist and Mammut Pro Team athlete Marek Holecek opening a new alpine-style route called “Heavenly Trap” on the northwest face of Baruntse (7162m) in Nepal with his climbing partner Radoslav Groh. Holecek, who already won two...

Matterhorn South Face First Major Winter Ascent

Matterhorn South Face First Major Winter Ascent

From the 27th of February to the 1st of March, the Italians François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre and Francesco Ratti succeeded in climbing the Padre Pio, une échelle vers le ciel route (1300 m, 7b, 6c obl.) on the south face of the Matterhorn (4478 m), in three days. A...

Why the greatest skimo race is Pierra Menta

Why the greatest skimo race is Pierra Menta

The 36th edition of the Pierra Menta came to an end on Saturday. The crowd went up to the Col de la Forclaz and to the Antécime du Grand Mont in Beaufortain at 5am to encourage the riders. They will have covered more than 10,000m of vertical drop in four days. In this...

“Many friends have lost their home” says Ukrainian climber

“Many friends have lost their home” says Ukrainian climber

Fedir Samoilov is a professional climber. He finished 6th in the World Cup in Briançon in 2021. He is 24 years old and is Ukrainian. Currently, as a refugee in Germany, he is doing what he can to fight the war in Ukraine. We were able to exchange a few words with him....

The legendary Conrad Anker

The legendary Conrad Anker

Conrad Anker has had an incredible life. And he’s not about to stop.At almost 60, the American is the character of a story so intense that even Hollywood would find it hard to believe. His life was adventurous when he was a young mountaineering prodigy climbing...

Will ski touring soon be charged in France?

Will ski touring soon be charged in France?

The advent of marked and secure ski touring routes, set up by the ski resorts, opens up the possibility of paying acces to the activity. But the conditions remain to be defined and this possibility remains distant. Last August, the winter sports resort of Aspen,...

The snowflake perfection

The snowflake perfection

“Let us love the snow. Otherwise, we risk breaking our poetic balance and forgetting our human condition,” wrote Francis Bossus in La Forteresse (1971). This winter and for the time being, the new “white gold” is rather rare. Mountain lovers...

Meeting Nirmal Purja, universal mountaineer

Meeting Nirmal Purja, universal mountaineer

Nirmal Purja made a quick and surprising stop in France, in collaboration with his sponsor Therm-ic. As neighbors, here in the french Alps, we had the great opportunity to ask a few questions to the alpinist, whose notoriety has taken a giant leap thanks to the...

Ice climbing : always a famous place

Ice climbing : always a famous place

At the Fer à Cheval in Sixt, the disciples of François Damilano and Thierry Renault continued their exploration of the circus with talent. The free climbing of long interrupted icefalls, mixing dry tooling and pure ice climbing on suspended stalactites, became the...

Cerro Torre tragedy : the rescue story by the Ragni di Lecco

Cerro Torre tragedy : the rescue story by the Ragni di Lecco

What has happened in recent days on Cerro Torre has overwhelmed us. In the space of a few hours there was anxiety as we waited for news, relief at knowing that our climbers were safe and sound, happiness at having achieved a new route and despair at the tragedy...

Tragedy in Patagonia : Korra Pesce died on Cerro Torre

Tragedy in Patagonia : Korra Pesce died on Cerro Torre

They are five at the top of Cerro Torre, on January 27. Five like the fingers of a hand, united to reach this summit which more than any other, seems inhuman. A rare event, two rope parties opened a new route on the East face of the Torre simultaneously. With his...

Garmin inReach Mini

Garmin inReach Mini

Test conditions Fall hiking and ski touring. Despite very cloudy conditions during our test, the Garmin InReach Mini found its satellites in less than a minute ©Ulysse Lefebvre Getting started Survival kit The mountain public knows Garmin mainly for its GPS watches...

Eiger 1966 : the story behind the death of John Harlin

Eiger 1966 : the story behind the death of John Harlin

The north face of the Eiger is unquestionably one of the most difficult and dangerous in Europe, wrote Pierre Mazeaud, who was familiar with the subject. Léo Billon (member of the Groupe Militaire de haute Montagne), Sébastien Ratel (ex-GMHM) and Benjamin Védrines...

Ice climbing: the birth of the 7

Ice climbing: the birth of the 7

If you like iceclimbing in France, then go to La Grave and the Diable valley in Oisans, Freissinières and Fournel in the Hautes-Alpes, Gavarnie in the Pyrenees. These valleys with major lines are the places where the ice climbing activity was born at the dawn of the...

Alaska : Ines Papert and Luka Lindic on Mount Huntington

Alaska : Ines Papert and Luka Lindic on Mount Huntington

Last Spring 2021 Ines Papert and Luka Lindič made the first ascent of a difficult mixed route on the West face of Mount Huntington close to Denali, Alaska. The duo had spied the line while repeating the Colton-Leach route and after resting for a day climbed the 1000m...

Arctic 12 : Interview with Jackie Paaso

Arctic 12 : Interview with Jackie Paaso

26 days, with mostly difficult weather and snow conditions: skiing the 12 highest peaks in Sweden last april, beyond the Arctic Circle, was not easy for skier Jackie Paaso and her team. Interview with the athlete Jackie, who is also the film‘s executive...

Age of the Nepalese

Age of the Nepalese

It was a year ago, on January the 16th, 2021. In the midst of the pandemic, with its restrictions, and after a very difficult year for the expedition business, a team of ten Nepalese, led by Mingma G. Sherpa and Nirmal Purja, managed to overcome the last 8000 never...

Ski test : Salomon MTN 95

Ski test : Salomon MTN 95

Getting started One more time! Salomon has renewed its MTN Explore 95: the 2022 ski is the same as the 2021, which apart from the topsheet was the same as in 2020. Wide rounded tip with progressive rocker, we feel its obvious appetite to make its mark in all terrain...

Ski test : Faction Agent 2.0

Ski test : Faction Agent 2.0

Our test Size tested : 179 cm An all-gray ski, that we can’t decide if it is ultra-classic or very refined. The perceived quality is ok, it’s not superbly made, however, there is a beautiful die cut on the sole. Once riding the Faction Agent 2.0, you can feel the...

Ski test : G3 FINDr 94

Ski test : G3 FINDr 94

Our test Size tested : 177 cm We tested G3 skis a long time ago, at a time when the brand had not yet fully mastered the integration of carbon in its structures. The skis were very fickle, they transmitted a lot in the legs, you really had to hold them to get smooth...

ARCTIC 12, full movie

ARCTIC 12, full movie

In April 2021, Jackie Paaso and her team, including SCOTT athletes and IFMGA guides Erin Smart and Benjamin Ribeyre, set out on a 415km traverse above the Arctic Circle. The goal was to be the first group to summit and ski all the 2000-meter peaks in Sweden during...

Ski test : Kästle TX 103

Ski test : Kästle TX 103

Our test Size tested : 181 cm A superb ski that made the team of testers smile from ear to ear because its skiability is clearly in a class of its own in the freeride touring category. The design and manufacturing quality give the zing to this Kästle TX 103. Some...

Ski test : Blizzard Zero G 105

Ski test : Blizzard Zero G 105

Our test Size tested : 180 cm The Blizzard Zero G 105 is a ski with an imposing size: 105 mm. Its area of expertise is not in your classic ski touring. It’s more of a backcountry ski, where freeriding is top of the list. This ski is irreproachable in deep powder. It...

Ski test : Blizzard Zero G 95

Ski test : Blizzard Zero G 95

Our test Size tested : 178 cm This Blizzard Zero G 95 feels very lightweight underfoot (1260 g for 178 cm). It is very pleasant in the uphill, you can’t feel it, there’s no inertia. What are its limits? In the downhill going through mounds and chop, you must be wary...

Ski test : Völkl Rise Beyond 96

Ski test : Völkl Rise Beyond 96

Our test Size tested : 177 cm The Völkl Rise Beyond 96 in a few words? A very easy ski, quite light, not very mechanized, in other words, a heavy-built skier will deform it a lot and can lose balance on it. But around 70kg it’s very pleasant even if it completely...

The alpinist: Don’t look down

The alpinist: Don’t look down

There are missed appointments that leave their mark. In 2015, I had the chance to discover Squamish, where many high-level climbers were invited by their sponsors to gather at the penultimate temple of North American climbing. Among them, a certain Marc-André Leclerc....

The new trend of winter himalayism

The new trend of winter himalayism

When 10 Nepalese climbed K2 together on 16 January last, some said it was the end of an era: the last page in the history of winter climbing seemed to be written. A year later, we can see that this is not really the case: winter Himalayan climbing is booming, with at...

Everest, Nanga Parbat, Manaslu, Cho Oyu winter attempts

Everest, Nanga Parbat, Manaslu, Cho Oyu winter attempts

Four groups of climbers are currently battling fierce winds, loads of snow and extreme cold on four Himalayan 8,000ers. However, few of them would fit in the usual definition of a “team”. On the contrary, each mountain has become the field to play a game of announced...

Free solo : Dave MacLeod on the north face of Ben Nevis

Free solo : Dave MacLeod on the north face of Ben Nevis

He is one of the great specialists in Scottish mixed climbing, where ice is sometimes scarce, but frost is abundant on the rock. Dave MacLeod is a regular on Ben Nevis in Scotland. Orion Face direct is a historic route on the Ben. Last March Dave McLeod did the route...

TOURING SKIS TEST – WIDE SKIS 2022

TOURING SKIS TEST – WIDE SKIS 2022

Here is our test of touring skis over 90mm waist width, winter 2022. This range of skis allows you to have fun on the descent, and not only in the powder: around 95mm these skis are very versatile, and super comfortable in spring snow as well as in powder. From the...

Ski test : Dynafit Mezzalama

Ski test : Dynafit Mezzalama

Our test Size tested : 162 cm The Dynafit Mezzalama fits perfectly to its listed program: pure and hard racing! It has almost zero skiability but it offers incredible climbing performance. It is clearly and only made for skiers who line up for the Pierra Menta or the...

Ski test : K2 Wayback 80

Ski test : K2 Wayback 80

Our test Size tested : 170 cm The k2 Wayback 80 is an excellent ski, both lightweight and great skiability. It is well-balanced between the two. You can’t feel the ski underfoot, yet it is pretty fluid, and doesn’t have any nasty tricks up its sleeve. It pivots very...

Energy Deficiency : the north-east pillar of Tengkangpoche

Energy Deficiency : the north-east pillar of Tengkangpoche

On the north east pillar of Tengkangpoche (6487 m, Nepal), the first attempt to climb in early October by Tom Livingstone and Matt Glenn ended in a bad fall in an artificial climbing passage. Tom injured his hand, still far from the summit, and the team decided to...

Potential Energy : An Abortive Attempt

Potential Energy : An Abortive Attempt

Travelling to Nepal’s Thengbo Valley last autumn, Tom Livingstone and Matt Glenn finally made the coveted first ascent in 20 years of the North Pillar of Tengkangpoche (6487m). But the two young British climbers took their time, on the spot, to choose this...

Cogne : first Italian-style ice

Cogne : first Italian-style ice

The ice season traditionally opens with the first real drop in temperature, but also with an event that is well known to ice-climbing enthusiasts: the well-named Cogne Ice Opening. For this tenth edition, the organisers, Matthias Scherer, Heike and Tanja Schmitt, were...

Full of energy : a last-minute alpine trip to Nepal

Full of energy : a last-minute alpine trip to Nepal

It is a major route that the British Tom Livingstone and Matt Glenn managed to climb at the end of October, on their second attempt and in 7 days to the summit and back : the north pillar of Tengkangpoche (6487 m), in Nepal. Coveted by numerous strong alpinists for...

Full circle, with Lynn Hill

Full circle, with Lynn Hill

Widely regarded as one of the leading competitive sport climbers in the world during the late 1980s and early 1990s, Lynn Hill is famous for making the first free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. This is the video portrait of Lynn Hill, one of the...

TEST SKI – WEDZE MT90

TEST SKI – WEDZE MT90

Notre test Testé en 178cm. Aurait-on trouvé le ski qui coche toutes les cases ? Ce Wedze MT90 (à 89mm au patin, comme son nom ne l’indique pas), est tout simplement réussite. Testé en 178cm, nous avons trouvé dans ce modèle le ski idéal pour tout faire, et bien...

Alpine traverse on skis, in the footsteps of Stéphane Brosse

Alpine traverse on skis, in the footsteps of Stéphane Brosse

Stéphane Brosse, one of the best mountain skiers, disappeared on skis 9 years ago, in 2012. Last winter, a team of three young skiers set off in his footsteps to cross the Aravis mountains on skis. The programme? 6500m of positive vertical drop and 35km on skis and...

Get us dreaming

Get us dreaming

“Um, I’ll have a think and get back to you…” Symon Welfringer (winner of the Piolet d’Or in 2021 with Pierrick Fine) was sharp enough to realise that our question, “What are the Piolets d’Or for?” actually hides several questions, each a potential minefield....

TOURING SKIS TEST – UP TO 90MM 2022

TOURING SKIS TEST – UP TO 90MM 2022

Here is our test of touring skis up to 90mm waist, winter 2022. Versatile by definition, designed for all-round skiers, this range of skis allows you to gain height, as these skis are often light, even very light. But in the 86mm to 90mm segment you’ll find THE...

Silvia Vidal : queen of solo

Silvia Vidal : queen of solo

The Piolets d’Or 2021 have just awarded a special mention to the Catalan climber Sílvia Vidal, in recognition of her “enormous contribution to the solo climbing of big walls over the past two decades”. From Alaska to Chilean Patagonia, via Pakistan,...

Ski test – Wedze MT85

Ski test – Wedze MT85

Our test Size tested : 176 cm Wedze (Decathlon) offers this ski alone or in a pack with bindings (Dynafit Tour Light) and skins, for a very competitive price (575 €). The pair of skis alone is also sold at an attractive price (375 €). But does this mean we have a ski...

Climbing in Jordan : the story of a great french new route

Climbing in Jordan : the story of a great french new route

A group of young climbers as part of the Rock Adventure Programme (RAP) from the French Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing (FFME) came back from Jordan in Winter 2020 with the impressive achievement of establishing a new multi-pitch route in the Wadi Rum...

Ski Test – Dynastar M Vertical Pro

Ski Test – Dynastar M Vertical Pro

Our test Size tested : 178 cm The Dynastar M-Vertical Pro is the typical backcountry product, not especially heavy or light, a ski you can do everything and go everywhere with, very easy to pivot. It has a very good tip-lift assisted by a rocker: the ski...

Ski test – Hagan Core 89

Ski test – Hagan Core 89

Our test Size tested : 170 cm The Hagan Core 89 rides on deep, hard, and groomed snow. It’s an excellent compromise between accessibility/skiability. It’s easy thanks to its pivoting, tip width, curve radius (18.5m), and flex distribution at the fore of the ski. All...

Ski test – Salomon MTN Summit 79

Ski test – Salomon MTN Summit 79

Our test Size tested : 164 cm We really liked this Salomon ski; it is simple and straightforward. It is relatively fluid despite its (very) light weight and perfectly corresponds to a ski touring program. It’s a ski that will go anywhere thanks to its good tip...

Ski test – Scott Superguide 88

Ski test – Scott Superguide 88

Our test Size tested : 170 cm A mixed review for this Scott Superguide 88 which needs a detailed analysis. You don’t feel immediately at ease on this ski. It’s very flat with a long edge length despite the front rocker. It feels like the ski is glued to the snow, a...

Ski test – Völkl Rise Above 88 W

Ski test – Völkl Rise Above 88 W

Our test Size tested : 170 cm The Völkl Rise Above 88 W is a women’s ski. It’s lightweight underfoot and oversteers a lot. You get the impression on the first downhill that it has no tail. If you put too much effort into pivoting, you do a full 360°! But, once you...

TEST SKI – WEDZE SLASH 100

TEST SKI – WEDZE SLASH 100

Notre test Testé en 183cm. Malgré sa largeur de patin relativement contenue (100mm) pour un ski de freeerando, il faut bien voir que ce Wedze Slash 100 est avant tout un ski de freeride. Pourquoi, parce que même monté en fixations à inserts, il reste conçu pour les...

Mingma G. Sherpa : the pawn who chose to be a King 2/2

Mingma G. Sherpa : the pawn who chose to be a King 2/2

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, who this autumn climbed the (true) summit of Manaslu, and who last winter made the first winter ascent of K2 with ten other Nepalese, has patiently built his success. Founder of the company Imagine Nepal a few years ago, the rising star is a...

Mingma G. Sherpa : the pawn who chose to be a King 1/2

Mingma G. Sherpa : the pawn who chose to be a King 1/2

Mingma Gyalje, aka Mingma G, is a man of his word. He said he would take the first winter ascent of K2 for his country, and he did it. He committed to put an end of years of controversy on Manaslu by reaching its true summit, and he provided, with no room for doubt,...

Ski test – Movement Axess 86

Ski test – Movement Axess 86

Our test Size tested : 169 cm The Movement Axess 86 is a very light ski with carbon weaving showing through fore and aft. This Movement Axess 86 showcase this noble fiber with this transparent effect that the designers have mastered the ski’s lateral and longitudinal...

Ski test – Kästle TX 65 World Cup

Ski test – Kästle TX 65 World Cup

Our test Size tested : 160 cm (one size) A genuine ski-mountaineering racing ski by Kästle. There’s no doubt, this Kästle TX65 World Cup is a step above the Dynafit Mezzalama. Like all these ultra-light racing skis (less than 700g for this Kästle!) that you benefit...

Ski test – Hagan Core 84

Ski test – Hagan Core 84

Our test Size tested : 162 cm We were able to test the Hagan Core 84 in size 162 cm, a women’s length… Therefore, when you weigh 70kg you find yourself on a very flexible ski. The tip bends, which obviously is detrimental to its fluidity. Although, a skier who’s...

LAST TRACK IN THE SNOW

LAST TRACK IN THE SNOW

Their tracks are lost on what seems to be a small snowy ridge.On the few photos released by the rescue team, we can guess the route taken by the three climbers. We understand their choice to stay on a snow line to avoid the adjacent coulées.We can imagine their...

14 peaks : when Netflix meets Nirmal Purja

14 peaks : when Netflix meets Nirmal Purja

When the one who climbed 14 peaks of more than 8000m in 7 months as well as the K2 in winter meets the one who changed the the cinematographic production codes, we must expect a very high calibre. The teaser of 14 peaks: nothing is impossible seems to confirm this...

Ski test – SkiTrab Magico 2

Ski test – SkiTrab Magico 2

Our test Size tested : 171 cm The Trab Magico 2 is a light ski, just over one kilo. On the snow, it is flighty, you must force down at the front to not be taken by surprise. The only problem is if you put too much pressure on it, due to the construction in this zone...

Ski test – Blizzard Zero G 85

Ski test – Blizzard Zero G 85

Our test Size tested : 178 cm With the Blizzard Zero G 85, you are closer to a traditional ski touring ski that is efficient in the climb, stable on the edge and in steep slopes. We really liked its main characteristic, which is its stability. When crossing slopes and...

The North Face Summit L3 50/50 Down Jacket

The North Face Summit L3 50/50 Down Jacket

Test conditions Chilly departures on ski touring, ice climbing belays. Unboxing This jacket is amazing and at first glance, somewhere between a good old down jacket and a small warm jacket.The outer fabric seems particularly resistant, without the fragile aspect of...

Ski test – SkiTrab Maestro.2

Ski test – SkiTrab Maestro.2

Our test Size tested : 171 cm The Trab Maestro.2 is a 100% touring ski that feels like it’s impressively light. It does : 953 g for 171 cm. At any rate, it is very pleasant, you can’t feel it underfoot. Its active edge is pretty long and contributes to a good grip on...

Ski test – Atomic Backland 80 SL

Ski test – Atomic Backland 80 SL

Our test Size tested : 170 cm The Atomic Backland 80 SL, strangely this is a ski that isn’t 80 mm at the waist but 79 mm. this fact doesn’t change a dime of how excellent this product is on the snow; we adored it. A 17.5m radius. This ski is perfect in all conditions,...

First ascents in Hindu Kush for Georgian Climbers

First ascents in Hindu Kush for Georgian Climbers

The Georgian team Archil Badriashvili/Giorgi Tepnadze continues to open new technical routes on high summits or to clear virgin faces. This summer, with Baqar Gelashvili, Archil and Giorgi explored the Roch Gol valley in Pakistan (Hindu Kush). They came back with the...

Three french mountaineers missing in Nepal

Three french mountaineers missing in Nepal

Three french climbers from the GEAN (Groupe excellence alpinisme national) of the FFCAM (Fédération des clubs alpins et de montagne) have been missing since 26 October 2021 in Nepal, Khumbu, not far from Ama Dablam. A reconnaissance flight revealed traces of an...

Ski test – Black Crows Orb Freebird

Ski test – Black Crows Orb Freebird

Our test Size tested : 173 cm The Black Crows Orb Freebird is an old friend, an award-winning freeride ski several times. The brand lists a slight gain in weight compared to the previous model and a Titanal plate to prevent the bindings from ripped off. On the snow,...

Ski test – Atomic Backland 65 UL

Ski test – Atomic Backland 65 UL

Our test Size tested : 161 cm (one size) Of the three pairs of skis tested in ski mountaineering racing, Dynafit Mezzalama, Kästle TX65 World Cup, the Atomic Backland 65 UL is the most successful ski. Too bad, we weren’t able to ski the Dynastar Pierra Menta. We...

Yasushi Yamanoi, 13th Piolets d’Or Career Award

Yasushi Yamanoi, 13th Piolets d’Or Career Award

The 13th Piolet d’Or career award, which will be presented in Briançon at the end of November, has been awarded to the 56 year old Japanese climber Yasushi Yamanoi. Dedicated to committed mountaineering and alpine style for nearly three decades, with major...

Advanced Mountain Kit The North Face

Advanced Mountain Kit The North Face

The North Face is accustomed to presenting innovations on a regular basis, and provides the means to do so. This fall, it is the launch of a complete range for mountaineering, the Advanced Mountain Kit, which is at the heart of the brand’s news. It is a very high-end...

class struggle at the top

class struggle at the top

Last week was marked by a surprising debate. Some people wondered if the top of a mountain was the highest point or the more comfortable little flat spot below.What does this curious episode tell us? A dusty quibble of specialists around a few meters of snow? No....

The truth about Manaslu

The truth about Manaslu

Manaslu has been the talk of the town. Summit, not summit? One is tempted to say, it’s over. In a post published on October 13, the Himalayan Data Base, the venerable institution that took over Miss E. Hawley’s verification work, wrote: “With the...

Test ski : Majesty Superwolf Carbon 91

Test ski : Majesty Superwolf Carbon 91

Prise en main Dès la prise en main, voilà un ski que les amateurs de gros ski freeride voudront adopter. Un patin déjà confortable, sans être pour autant démesuré, qui laisse donc le champ libre à des montées aisées et des descentes toniques et réactives. Spatule...

Karakoram : Link Sar First Ascent Movie

Karakoram : Link Sar First Ascent Movie

Standing at 7041 Metres, Link Sar is said to be the last great unclimbed mountain of the Karakoram range in Pakistan. The Mountain has seen 9 failed attempts since 1970 : Steve Swenson first attempted Link Sar in 2001 with an American team, and then again, after a...

Everest Express: acclimatizing at home

Everest Express: acclimatizing at home

Is it possible to climb Everest in three weeks or Manaslu in a fortnight under acceptable margins of safety? The short answer is yes, it is, as long as climbers find the right way to pre-acclimatize while at home. The use of hypoxic tents and masks is granting some...

Himalaya: Manaslu’s true summit rediscovered!

Himalaya: Manaslu’s true summit rediscovered!

No fewer than 200 people have attempted to climb Manaslu since early September. No fewer than 100 people claim to have reached the summit in the last few days. But did they? On 27 September, a determined Nepali, Mingma G. Sherpa, reclimbed Manaslu’s true summit, which...

Mont Blanc in a Day: A Marathon Day Out at 4,810 m

Mont Blanc in a Day: A Marathon Day Out at 4,810 m

Mont Blanc via the Goûter Route attracts a lot of people, from all horizons and with all levels of ability. The idea of climbing the route in a day, either as a personal challenge or simply as a way of visiting the “roof of the Alps” without missing the evening’s...

Test ski : Dynastar M-Tour 99

Test ski : Dynastar M-Tour 99

Prise en main Au revoir le Mythic 97, voici le M-Tour 99, qui est totalement nouveau. Le Dynastar M-Tour 99 est à première vue taillé pour sortir des sentiers battus. Son shape général donne le ton : exit les pentes douces ou bien lisses et bienvenue au tout terrain...

[Breaking news : climbers safe] Rakaposhi Drama Sparks Debate

[Breaking news : climbers safe] Rakaposhi Drama Sparks Debate

An SOS call last Saturday from three climbers trapped at 6,900m on Rakaposhi (7,788m ) has triggered one of the biggest rescue operations in Pakistan’s mountaineering history, and an even bigger ethical debate and financial mess, since the team was climbing without a...

A new major climb on La Meije South Face

A new major climb on La Meije South Face

At the end of August, Benjamin Ribeyre, Erin Smart and Cyril Dupeyré completed their project on the south face of the Meije, the opening of a new major route on the Doigt de Dieu. Mountain guide based in La Grave, Benjamin Ribeyre has a passion for the Reine Meije....

Verdon : the show must go on

Verdon : the show must go on

We will never get tired of seeing the mythical cliffs of the Verdon. Even better: it is his story that is summarized here in about twenty minutes. Alternating interviews with Bernard Vaucher, Bernard Gorgeon, Catherine Destivelle, Angelika Rainer, Lionel Catsoyannis...

The Tricot – Bionnassay – Mont Blanc Ridge Traverse

The Tricot – Bionnassay – Mont Blanc Ridge Traverse

Have you ever wanted to take an adventurous hike up to the mont Blanc via a beautiful route off the beaten path? If so, then come with us to Val Montjoie, along the ridge that links the Col de Tricot to the Aiguille de Bionnassay and continues up to the summit of the...

The Alpinist : The life of Marc-Andre Leclerc

The Alpinist : The life of Marc-Andre Leclerc

Attention blockbuster in the making ! The American majors are now interested in mountains and mountaineering, surely following the worldwide success of Free Solo and Dawn Wall.It is therefore Universal that has joined forces with Red Bull Media House and Sender Films...

David Roberts 1943 – 2021

David Roberts 1943 – 2021

Known in the climbing world as a mountaineer, author and the dean of adventure reporting, David Roberts has died at 78, August 20th. He was the author or cowriter of 32 books, including four that he finished after his throat cancer diagnosis. Australian mountaineer...

Why we run ? : a conversation with Bernd Heinrich

Why we run ? : a conversation with Bernd Heinrich

Forty years old : the start of the long wait or an age of possibilities ? For Bernd Heinrich it was definitely the latter, as 40 was the age when he discovered ultrarunning and began setting records. Now in his 80s, Heinrich has just written Racing The Clock : Running...

Riding down Piz Boè on a bike

Riding down Piz Boè on a bike

Guinness World Record holder Tom Oehler has taken trial mountain biking to new heights again. The 37-year-old Austrian, who holds the world records in bike high jump (3m, 9.8 ft, 2009, Kaprun, Austria) and 400m hurdles on a bike (44,62s, 2013, Linz, Austria), rode...

No room for mistakes !

No room for mistakes !

Mountain biking is on the rise, and trials athletes are having a field day when they accept a certain amount of commitment. Follow Austrian trials mountain biker, Tom Oehler, on his mission through the Dolomites, taking on the most exposed and extreme MTB trails he...

Seconds Out : Vic Saunders and Mick Fowler in the boxing ring

Seconds Out : Vic Saunders and Mick Fowler in the boxing ring

Famous since he and Mick Fowler opened the Golden Pillar at Spantik in August 1987, British climber Victor Saunders has always remained humble. So much so that he recently decided to reveal, in a book to be read – Structured Chaos, the unusual life of a climber...

A JOURNEY IN MONT-BLANC BETWEEN FRANCE AND ITALY

A JOURNEY IN MONT-BLANC BETWEEN FRANCE AND ITALY

Incredible but true! Taking the Julbo team’s mountain athletes and their community to the peaks together was a daring gamble. Through polls, votes, quizzes and calls to action of all kinds, followers were invited to participate in the athletes’ mountain...

Magnificent new lines climbed on Ushba and Ailama in Georgia

Magnificent new lines climbed on Ushba and Ailama in Georgia

The two Georgian climbers, Archil Badriashvili and Giorgi Tenadze, made a name for themselves in 2019 when they climbed the Nanga Parbat in spring and then made stunning first ascents of the Pangpoche in Nepal in autumn. In 2020, Covid-19 hit and the pair, having...

Pakistan climbing season is on : Crisis and Opportunities

Pakistan climbing season is on : Crisis and Opportunities

In every crisis lies an opportunity, they say. This could be the case in the Karakorum mountains where, against all odds, the summer is looking promising. After the horrors of spring in the Himalayas – covid and overcrowding on Everest – Pakistan is poised...

Scottish sea stacks #1 : iconic Old Man of Hoy

Scottish sea stacks #1 : iconic Old Man of Hoy

Whether you call them Old Men, sea stacks or pinnacles, the towers that dot the Scottish coastline are as dishearteningly beautiful as the wind that sweeps them. Of a fragile balance on a geological scale, they resist all the same to the steps of the handful of...

The invention of the fleece

The invention of the fleece

Everyone has one, or several, at home. 40 years ago, fleeces ousted woollens : offering just as much warmth, they are water-repellent, wind-proof, breathable and cosy ; an ideal combination in the mountains. But how did fleeces, a game changer for outerwear, come...

Nepal Himalaya : The Season of COVID and Secrecy

Nepal Himalaya : The Season of COVID and Secrecy

Nothing went as planned in Nepal this season, as the Himalayas opened their doors to the world again after a year-long gap due to the pandemic. Covid spread in the base camps like wildfire, from Everest to Dhaulagiri, while the Nepalese authorities denied it. A total...

Millet Trilogy 15+ backpack

Millet Trilogy 15+ backpack

Getting started At first glance, this Millet Trilogy 15+ bag is a strange object. Is it a trail bag with its large shoulder straps and helmet holders? Is it a mountaineering bag with its ice axe holders? Or a ski bag with ski racks?  Or is it a climbing bag with its...

New Life, a film by Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson

New Life, a film by Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson

James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini have spent the last decade exploring the world as a husband and wife team, climbing together across the globe on some of the hardest and boldest routes around. When Caroline discovered she was pregnant in 2019,the couple asked...

Chamonix, mountain film capital past and present

Chamonix, mountain film capital past and present

From 9 to 13 June, Chamonix Mont-Blanc hosted its first mountain film festival, and we saw many of you there ! Such a festival was a natural choice for the “world capital of mountaineering”, which has attracted film-makers for over a century and provided backdrops for...

Chris Bonington, the Himalayas unbridled

Chris Bonington, the Himalayas unbridled

From the south faces of Annapurna and Everest, to the Central Tower of Paine and Shivling : whether as lead mountaineer or expedition leader, Chris Bonington is not only one of the most prolific British mountaineers, but also one of the most creative, and an ardent...

The Golden Pillar

The Golden Pillar

The Golden Pillar of the Spantik owes its name to the orange-pink marble which captures the light of the setting sun. It has often been compared to large alpine routes such as the Walker Spur, but the Walker starts at 3000 meters and climbs to 4000, while the pillar...

An expedition with the Vanguard Alta Sky 53 bag

An expedition with the Vanguard Alta Sky 53 bag

The bag that carries, supports and protectsyour equipment and your back + Total weightVersatilityRobustness – Missing a pocket for everything No, it doesn’t all fit in the bag, at least not at the same time. But a good 3/4 of what’s in the picture...

[Teaser] JULIA, the story of Julia Chanourdie

[Teaser] JULIA, the story of Julia Chanourdie

Julia-Teaser from Alpine Mag Pro on Vimeo. Julia Chanourdie made the most her time in 2020 without any competitions by sending her first 9a+ at the beginning of the year 2020 in Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux, France. In November 2020, at the same crag, she sent her first 9b...

Climbing and eating disorders: the Light documentary

Climbing and eating disorders: the Light documentary

This is a known phenomenon among high level climbers, yet it is rarely discussed. Being “sharp” is part of the climbing culture, but this sharpening can take on worrying proportions at the top level, with athletes who are obsessed with their...

Marc Batard : why I gave up on Annapurna

Marc Batard : why I gave up on Annapurna

The ascent of Annapurna (8,091 metres) will not take its place among the “Everest sprinter’s” list of accomplishments.  At 69 years of age, Marc Batard, who holds the record for the speed ascent of Everest in less than 24 hours, has nothing else to prove in the...

ARCTERYX NORVAN SL2

ARCTERYX NORVAN SL2

You can innovate once on 1000 details, you can refine an innovation 1000 times, but you can’t put together 1000 novelties 1000 times. Or close to it. In short: Arcteryx is taking the world of footwear to the top. The quintessence of materials, perfection of...

SALOMON SENSE 4 PRO

SALOMON SENSE 4 PRO

We loved the Sense 3 Pro so much, which succeeded in conceiving the almost-impossible: to bring together all running profiles, to satisfy from 40 to 80 km or even more. Curiosity climaxes in 2020, and an indispensable award in 2021: the Sense 4 Pro remains a...

ASICS FUJI TRABUCO MAX

ASICS FUJI TRABUCO MAX

At last an Asics for ultra that meets all expectations! The ex-aficionados deplored successive innovations: where was the Asics expertise, what were those tenfold grips… The Fuji Trabuco Pro 2021 is simply full and harmonious. Precise fit and amazing lacing;...

Interview : Sean Villanueva on his solo reverse Fitz  traverse

Interview : Sean Villanueva on his solo reverse Fitz traverse

Sean Villanueva blew away the mountaineering world by completing the first solo south to north traverse of the Fitz Roy massif, setting off without warning from the 5th to the 10th February 2021. We got to interview the most musical of climbers by telephone from his...

Ski test : Dynafit Beast 98

Ski test : Dynafit Beast 98

Our test Size tested : 184 cm The Dynafit Beast 98 doesn’t have a very lifted tip, when you find yourself in deep or crusted snow you are quickly taken by surprise. You mustn’t lean forward, and be sure with your balance. In wide turns at high speed, if you put...

Yvon Chouinard : Some Stories

Yvon Chouinard : Some Stories

New book column ! Yvon Chouinard left his mark on El Capitan and Fitz Roy, and established the emblematic brand, Patagonia, having started out forging climbing equipment by hand. A collection of his writings, Some Stories is an autobiographical book which sheds light...

Test ski : Scott Superguide 95

Test ski : Scott Superguide 95

Prise en main Le Superguide 95 est dans la droite lignée de ses ancêtres Superguide de la marque Scott avec un ski ultra fiable à la finition mate impeccable. On l’a testé en deux tailles différentes : en 170 pour un skieur d’1m77, et en 178 pour un skieur...

Test ski : Black Diamond Helio Carbon 95

Test ski : Black Diamond Helio Carbon 95

Prise en main Chez Black Diamond, les skis de randonnée sont divisés en deux sous-catégories : les Helio Recon et les Helio Carbon. Tandis que ces derniers sont ultra-légers grâce à leur structure en fibre de carbone (associée à un noyau paulownia), les Recon sont eux...

An exclusive interview with Adam Ondra

An exclusive interview with Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra needs no introduction. The 27 year old Czech climber is a living legend in the climbing world. His long list of accomplishments include the first 9c sport route, a second free ascent of the Dawn Wall and qualification for the Olympics in Tokyo. Adam Ondra...

Colin Haley : Reflections on Hard Solo Climbing

Colin Haley : Reflections on Hard Solo Climbing

Colin Haley, a strong American climber and, until recently, a committed soloist, confesses to the following. Soloing is almost like an art form in itself, a form of mountaineering stripped of rope – and friends. By his own admission, Colin Haley is not about to...

Colin Haley : Reflections on Hard Solo Climbing

Colin Haley : Reflections on Hard Solo Climbing

Born in Seattle, in love with Chamonix and Patagonia, Colin Haley is one of the best American climbers. After a series of remarkable solo firsts, he is now hanging up. Last summer, conditions that were too harsh in Patagonia made him think : the desire to do big solos...

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