Petzl Hirundos Harness

Don’t let the orange color and déjà-vu look fool you. A discerning eye will notice right away: the new Petzl Hirundos harness has changed a lot since the previous model, which, by the way, was red. But that’s far from the difference with this new Hirundos, Petzl’s flagship model for climbing, from indoor to big-pitch, right up to mountaineering.

Released in 2023, this new version benefits from a completely new construction: Fuseframe construction, glued in place of the classic construction with exposed seams (on the previous, red model). This Fuseframe construction with thermoformed closed-cell foam is designed to provide constant comfort throughout the activity, whether indoors, on cliffs or in the mountains. We only tested this Petzl Hirundos on cliff outings: but its contained weight of 310 grams in size M makes it a suitable harness for mountaineering. Other specific features make this rather high-end harness a real departure from its predecessor.

Design

Let’s be clear: we like the harness’s design and sobriety. No frills : just five gear loops, the very best. More on that later. As for color, the trigger guard and its two attachment points are white, for easy identification. Otherwise, it’s all color block, apart from a slight mottled look on the gear loops. If you don’t like orange color, don’t worry: Petzl offers its Hirundos in black.

Comfort: Fuseframe construction means less thickness, but comfort is still there. The Hirundos is very, very comfortable. There’s no pressure point, and the waistband is not very wide, but still comfortable when suspended. Okay, after an hour hanging on a static rope to shoot Tanguy Merard, the last Frenchman to climb 9b (5.15b !) , you start to get tired, but if your companion spends more than an hour belaying without a break, you’ve got to choose something easier! So yes, comfort is the name of the game.

For which activity?

The Hirundos, once used by mountaineers, is designed for sport climbing. But Petzl has chosen to add features such as a real fifth gear loop (unlike the previous version of the Hirundos, which only had a little loop for a pof bag) and two systems of loops for attaching caritools, those plastic loops (optional) for carrying ice screws.

In short, the Hirundos has a broad spectrum: indoor, crag, long route, mountain.The only difference with a 100% mountaineering harness is that it doesn’t have adjustable thigh buckles, a prerogative of the Adjama model. But this is not an absolute rule: the Sitta, a top-of-the-range mountaineering harness, has no adjustable thigh loops. Finally, on this new Hirundos, TPU patches have appeared on the back of the thigh straps to protect this area from abrasion.

The test

First of all, we like the idea that with this harness you can switch from one activity to another: the Hirundos can do it all, and that’s just as well. With the exception of ski touring, where you’re more likely to want an ultra-light harness, the Hirundos can be used for all vertical activities (except canyoneering, of course, if you want to keep it in good condition).

As we’ve already said, the harness is very comfortable to wear, closed by the aluminum “double back” buckle. The only drawback is that the loop for holding the extra webbing is a little too narrow. The flexible – and elasticated – thigh straps offer maximum comfort when climbing or on approach walks. The plus? They can each be unclipped from the belt (at the back, of course), should the need arise.

The rear ring has been turned into a real gear rack, so if you want to attach your hauling rope to it, no problem. The two front holders (left and right) are rigid, so you can get your quickdraws out and on faster. The two rear holders are flexible, so they won’t get in the way when you’re wearing a backpack. Nice touch.

CONCLUSION

From a 100% climbing harness, Petzl has made the latest generation of the Hirundos an all-in-one harness, capable of accompanying you on all your outings, from the climbing gym to the big route. Its sober design conceals three-star comfort and, in our opinion, a complete range of accessories. A great choice.