Janja Garnbret claims first female ascent of legendary 5.14c from the 90s in Slovenia
After ticking off her third 5.14b on sight three weeks earlier with “Popolni Mrk” at Mišja peč, Slovenia’s mythical cliff, Janja Garnbret continues by signing the first female ascent of “Za Staro kolo in Majhnega psa”. This legendary 5.14c, steeped in history, was one of the three hardest routes in the world in the 90s, along with “Action Directe” and “Hubble”. Janja Garnbret, the...
The twelve most important solo ascents of the Drus west face
The west face of the Drus dominates Chamonix, attracting the best climbers of their time like a magnet. We have compiled a non-exhaustive list of solo ascents of this thousand-meter wall of granite. This is the story of the twelve major solo climbers on the West Face of the Drus, from Walter Bonatti to Benjamin Védrines, including René Desmaison, Christophe Profit, Catherine Destivelle, François...
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New route in Patagonia’s remote Turbio valley : the story of two Canadian climbers
At the end of January, young Canadian climbers Flavie Cardinal and Jasper Pankratz opened a new route : Todo lo que se Comparte (TD, 5.11, A0, 500m) on the Pirita Central in the remote Turbio...
Seb Berthe successfully climbs the Dawn Wall and dedicates his ascent to the “anti-fascist struggle”
On January 31, Seb Berthe became the 4th climber to send the 32 pitches of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan, the most difficult multi-pitch route on the planet. The Belgian climber had already attempted...
“The most ambitious and difficult project I’ve undertaken in the Alps” told us French alpinist Benjamin Védrines after his 5-days-solo-ascent of the Drus
The French climber is one of the best, if not the best, of his generation. Benjamin Védrines has just climbed, alone and in winter, an extreme route in Les Drus, above Chamonix, called BASE (ED+,...
“We’re in the early days of mixed climbing in terms of pure difficulty”: Leo Billon after a new route in Mont Blanc Massif with Amaury Fouillade
From February 4 to 6, Léo Billon and Amaury Fouillade, both members of Elite French Army called Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne in Chamonix, opened a new route on the Pointe Rapahël Borgis de Pré...
Six new 8000ers official peaks in Nepal
The Nepalese government has just officially recognised six new peaks over 8000 metres in Nepal, which already had eight. This brings the total number of 8000-metre peaks in Nepal to fourteen, and...
Climbing Everest in A Week with Xenon gas
Leaving home on Monday morning. To reach the summit of Everest on Thursday night, and return home on Sunday… That’s the dream of a client on Everest next spring. Doing Everest in a week...
Jost Kobusch’s solo Everest in winter: “It will take time, but I will be back”
Jost Kobusch’s quest is a singular and long one. For almost six years, the young German mountaineer has been attempting to climb the world’s highest peak, Everest, alone and in winter,...
Ice climbing : the new guidebook for Briancon, the French Ice Climbing Mecca
350 pages, 850 ice and mixed routes: it’s been a long wait, but not in vain! Twenty years have passed since the previous topo, and now the new guidebook for ice climbing around Briancon,...
7 days on the west face of the Drus, a new route set by Amaury Fouillade, Baptiste Obino and Philippe Bruley
The Drus’ arrow is a powerful magnet. The kind you can’t take your eyes off. The king mountaineers never forget. After a bitter failure in April, when one of them was rescued, Amaury...
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Painting the mountains, full movie
The Patagonian mountains attract the best climbers, but more rarely skiers, and for good reason: the tawny granite spires that streak across the skies of El Chalten are big walls where there is...
Ice climbing : the new guidebook for Briancon, the French Ice Climbing Mecca
350 pages, 850 ice and mixed routes: it’s been a long wait, but not in vain! Twenty years have passed since the previous topo, and now the new guidebook for ice climbing around Briancon,...
Their First Ascent: how they do it… and how they tell it
It’s a popular drawing by French artist Samivel published in his collection Sous l’oeil des choucas in 1937. The first box of the strip shows two mountaineers climbing a small, debonair...
Chamonix Photo Festival: the meeting place for image enthusiasts
It’s the autumn rendezvous of the mountaineering capital: the Chamonix Photo Festival. From October 25 to 27, it’s the place to be for lovers of photography and the mountains. On the...
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