Luka Lindič, experience first

Luka Lindic à Chamonix, juillet 2024. ©JC

He has climbed rare peaks – Gasherbrum IV – and pioneered bold ascents from Alaska to Patagonia. Slovenian mountaineer Luka Lindic was present at the Arc’teryx Alpine Academy in Chamonix. It was a great opportunity to listen to his words as an accomplished mountaineer, his eyes and head still full of dreams. Calm in spirit, always focused on future climbing projects, however long they may take, Luka Lindic shares his thoughts on how to live out his passion for the high mountains. And to choose quality over quantity.

L’Aiguille Poincenot

Luka Lindic : In 2020, Luka Krajnc and I opened and climbed Mir, a route at Aiguille Saint-Exupéry, next to Aiguille Poincenot. When we got to the top we could see the south face of Aiguille St-Exupéry, and then we were intrigued. Rolo Garibotti gave us some photos. But I didn’t know if it was feasible, at least in alpine technique, as the middle wall looked smooth. I estimated the chances of this wall being possible at 50%. If it’s too smooth, we won’t be able to get through. Finally that year we made an attempt, without success. With the idea that another option might be possible further to the right. But that would mean taking the next weather window with the risk, perhaps, of climbing nothing. In the end, we went and had a look. It was better. We went back down, and then on the same day Korra Pesce, who was a friend of mine, had an accident.