At a time when everyone is looking for the lightest backpack before an alpine route, Petzl presents the Whisper, an ultra-light harness designed for climbers and mountaineers who count every gram without compromising on safety. We tested this minimalist model on several outings, including some multi-pitch routes and some climbing trips, which is not its primary intended use.
The Whisper stands out first and foremost for its extreme compactness. Weighing 170 grams (in size M), it falls into the category of hyper-light harnesses, but Petzl clearly intends it for technical and demanding use in disciplines such as ski mountaineering, glacier traverses, fast & light mountaineering, and ridges on 4000-meter peaks.
Construction and design
With its innovative MATRYX® Technology fabric construction, this harness is made from a laminated structure without padding, with thin but rigid straps that provide a secure fit without sacrificing comfort for specific uses. Matryx is made from high-density polyethylene and polyamide, which ensures rapid moisture wicking when the climber is in motion. There are no metal buckles on the thighs: adjustments are made using ultralight fabric loops. Matryx fabric is designed to resist abrasion and cuts.
Ultra-compact, the Petzl Whisper can also be folded flat, making it ideal for packing in a bag or for fast & light approaches.
Field Test
Unsurprisingly, the Whisper is not designed for prolonged suspension. When rappelling or belaying from the harness, comfort is rather basic compared to the Petzl Sitta. On long routes (NW face of Pointe Percée), with long minutes hanging from the belay, it is clearly quite uncomfortable, especially around the left waist belt when wearing several layers of clothing. The reason? The buckle causes the attachment strap and the left-side waistbelt to shift further and further to the left… This is a known issue, but the Petzl Sitta offers much greater comfort when suspended. The Whisper excels when you are not sitting in your harness: glacier travel, belaying on the move, short roping… and climbing outside of top-roping and rappelling.
It stays in place even during dynamic movements or conversions on steep slopes, and you forget you’re wearing it when walking. This is where the Whisper really shines.
However, when climbing, strong climbers looking to save a few dozen grams (or less) may choose the Whisper for even greater lightness.
Pointe Percée, Haute-Savoie, France, on a 350-meter limestone route, 5c+ (5.10a), the Whisper is easy to forget thanks to its featherweight design.. ©LC
Functionality
The four neat gear loops can be used with gloves and allow you to carry gear (quickdraws, pitons, lanyards, small pulleys, etc.). We like the fact that the two front gear loops have been made rigid and the two rear gear loops are compatible with wearing a backpack.
Three details complete the accessory package: there is a rear loop for clipping a haul rope or other equipment, and two loops for Caritools (or equivalent) for carrying ice screws. Overall, the perceived quality is very high, with impeccable finishes.
Safety and durability
The Petzl Whisper is certified for technical mountaineering. The thin straps are designed to last and meet the requirements for falls, but as mentioned, the small support surface means that repeated falls or suspensions should be limited. In terms of robustness, there are no complaints: after several outings, there are no signs of premature wear.
Delphine wears the Whisper, Tournoux, Hautes-Alpes, France, on a hard route, 8a (5.13b). ©JC
CONCLUSION
The Petzl Whisper is aimed at a niche market of demanding users, for whom every gram saved is an extra margin of safety. It comes at a (high) price for a specialist harness, designed for fast-paced climbing, timed ascents, high-altitude expeditions, and ambitious ski mountaineers. It is positioned between the Petzl Altitude, which is designed for ski touring and is much more affordable, and the Petzl Sitta, which is less lightweight but more versatile. The Whisper does not replace a more traditional harness such as the Sitta for long routes or mixed climbing, but in its field (think ridge climbing), it excels, with an immaculate and impeccable design. It remains to be seen whether consumers will prefer to have two harnesses (Sitta and Altitude) for barely more than the price of one, but that’s the price of excellence.
Features
Weight: 170 g (M), 140 g (XS), 185 g (L)
Material: MATRYX Technology, high-density polyethylene, polyamide, polyester, aluminum
Gear loops: 4, 1 rear loop, 2 Caritool loops
Sizes: XS to L
Certifications: CE EN 12277 type C, UIAA
Recommended retail price: €180