Story of a first ascent in Spantik
In the heart of the Karakoram, in the ancient Mirdom of Nagar, lies a little-known mountain. Although the Karakoram Highway passes no more than 30 km from it, the peak is not visible from the road. Yet from Nagar the mountain is striking.
On the Skardu side of the watershed, the peak is called Spantik. (This may be a Balti name : I have not been there.) According to some sources the peak is also known as Yengutz Sar : this is clearly erroneous, as the peak cannot be seen from the Burushaski-speaking Yengutz Har Valley (‘Valley of the Torrent of the Flour Mills’), and Sar is not a Burushaski synonym for peak ; it means pond.
The first Westerners to attempt the mountain were the Americans, Fanny Bullock Workman and her husband Dr William Hunter Workman. In 1906 they climbed the laborious Chogolungma Glacier, taking
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