Seconds Out : when Vic Saunders and Mick Fowler fight Structured chaos
Famous since he and Mick Fowler opened the Golden Pillar at Spantik in August 1987, British climber Victor Saunders has always remained humble. So much so t... Read More...
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MOUNTAINEERING
A JOURNEY IN MONT-BLANC BETWEEN FRANCE AND ITALY DRAW THE LINE #1
Incredible but true! Taking the Julbo team's mountain athletes and their community to the peaks together was a daring gamble. Through polls, votes, quizzes ... Read More...
Pakistan climbing season is on : Crisis and Opportunities
In every crisis lies an opportunity, they say. This could be the case in the Karakorum mountains where, against all odds, the summer is looking promising. Afte... Read More...
Taming Rolling Stones on Grandes Jorasses North Face by Tom Livingstone Part One
Britain's Tom Livingstone made a name for himself in 2018 with his ascent of the north face of Latok I in Pakistan, along with Slovenians Aleš Česen and Luka S... Read More...
Nepal Himalaya : The Season of COVID and Secrecy
Nothing went as planned in Nepal this season, as the Himalayas opened their doors to the world again after a year-long gap due to the pandemic. Covid spread in... Read More...
Millet Trilogy 15+ backpack
Getting started
At first glance, this Millet Trilogy 15+ bag is a strange object. Is it a trail bag with its large shoulder straps and helmet holders? Is it ... Read More...
Advocacy for a new Himalayanism : Should the rules for expeditions to Nepal be changed? Part 1
The queues of Everest candidates have made visible an unattractive aspect of the current Himalayas: too many fixed ropes and extreme merchandising have made ... Read More...
Chris Bonington, the Himalayas unbridled
From the south faces of Annapurna and Everest, to the Central Tower of Paine and Shivling : whether as lead mountaineer or expedition leader, Chris Bonington i... Read More...
The Golden Pillar Story of a first ascent in Spantik
The Golden Pillar of the Spantik owes its name to the orange-pink marble which captures the light of the setting sun. It has often been compared to large alpine... Read More...
Marc Batard : why I gave up on Annapurna
The ascent of Annapurna (8,091 metres) will not take its place among the “Everest sprinter’s” list of accomplishments. At 69 years of age, Marc Batard, who h... Read More...
Carlos Soria, the Spanish veteran mountaineer who attempted to climb Dhaulagiri at the age of 82
Carlos Soria is not the only person in their eighties to have attempted to climb the highest peaks in the world, but he has already done 12 of the 8000ers and ... Read More...
The Matterhorn, up the Zmutt Nose in winter : “what fires my imagination in mountaineering is the adventure”, Mat Détrie.
The ascent party made up of Pauline Champon, Mat Détrie, and Louis Pachoud repeated the Zmutt Nose route on the north face of the Matterhorn from 24th to 26th F... Read More...
A FIRST FOR THE GMHM ON LES DRUS : “I HAD NEVER COME ACROSS SUCH A STEEP FACE IN THE ALPS”, LEO BILLON
Four members of the French Army’s High-Altitude Military Group (GMHM) opened a way on the west face of Les Drus, from the 18th to 22nd February, in four bivvie... Read More...
An historic ascent overshadowed by tragedy : The Nepalis’ response to what happened on K2
The ascent of K2 in the dead of winter was a historic first. Yet, it came with 5 deaths, including 3 bodies yet to be found. It was a story entailed with riva... Read More...
Yvon Chouinard : Some Stories HIS STORIES OF MOUNTAINS AND BUSINESS
New book column ! Yvon Chouinard left his mark on El Capitan and Fitz Roy, and established the emblematic brand, Patagonia, having started out forging climbing... Read More...
What remains of his 1980 solo ascent of Everest ? Reinhold Messner speaks out on the changing face of alpinism
41 years ago, Reinhold Messner climbed Everest for the second time. He did it right in the middle of monsoon season, without the aid of oxygen and alone on the... Read More...
Colin Haley : Reflections on Hard Solo Climbing Part 2/2
Colin Haley, a strong American climber and, until recently, a committed soloist, confesses to the following. Soloing is almost like an art form in itself, a f... Read More...