It’s one of the hardest routes on a north face that doesn’t lack them: No Siesta at the Grandes Jorasses, 30 pitches of mixed rock and ice, sometimes doubtful, sometimes compact. Opened in 1986 by Jan Porvaznik and Stanislav Glejdura, No Siesta has seen a few repetitions that have made it a myth: first solo in 3 days by Patrice Glairon-Rappaz in 2000, first winter and free by Robert Jasper in 2003.
For the last ten years, the (rare) repeaters have been doing this route in the fall or winter. Christophe Dumarest knows the north face of the Jorasses well: and for good reason, with this ascent of No Siesta his counter shows twelve routes on the north face! Not far from being a record, no doubt. Roped with the Briton Tom Livingstone, the team climbed No Siesta with two bivouacs. A short and successful film on what remains one of the most famous routes in the Alps.