Mat Détrie : I’d long been dreaming about the Cerruti-Gogna route**. It goes up the acutely steep prow of the Zmutt Nose, the most vertical face of the Matterhorn, to the right of the standard north face route by the Schmidt brothers. To my knowledge, few have repeated the route, and allegedly not since autumn 2014, the year when favourable conditions on the north face enabled a French ascent party – Sébastien Ratel and Julien Ravanello – as well as an Italian team led by François Cazanelli to repeat it. François is also a friend of mine, and he gave me some tips, the same goes for Patrice Glairon-Rappaz and Cédric Périllat, who did
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