It is a major route that the British Tom Livingstone and Matt Glenn managed to climb at the end of October, on their second attempt and in 7 days to the summit and back : the north pillar of Tengkangpoche (6487 m), in Nepal. Coveted by numerous strong alpinists for the past 20 years, this pillar is a combination of purely rocky, mixed and artificial climbing, which can be very tricky. The previous rope parties failed, as best, in the last few meters of the headwall below the final ridge leading to the top. Livingstone and Glenn passed. The first of three parts of Tom’s exclusive story, and the superb images of the rope party.
Attempt 2. Day Five. Around 6000 metres on Tengkangpoche, Khumbu region, Nepal
Hanging from a single peg in front of my face, I watched as it bent and flexed with my weight. Anxiously scratching the