Tengkangpoche north pillar first ascent story 1/3
Hanging from a single peg in front of my face, I watched as it bent and flexed with my weight. Anxiously scratching the snow, I searched desperately for another placement. The key to Tengkangpoche’s upper headwall was contained within this single crack. All our efforts up to this moment were suspended in one question: could we climb through this feature? How I’d wondered, worried, longed to see what was around the corner. Would it go?
A gale blew ice into my numb cheeks and stung my eyes, shaking the rope. Straddling the blunt arête, a thousand metres of air dropped beneath my boots. The distant valley was already dark – night was rushing. ‘Move!’ I shouted at myself, trying to maintain a pace
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