François Cazzanelli: fast is safe

TOP 50 mountaineering

©Matteo Pavana / La Sportiva

Another Italian rocket, but one whose motor is just as efficient on the high peaks of the Himalaya. Cazzanelli made his name in 2019 by climbing Mont Blanc via the Peuterey Integral in 12 hours 12 minutes (round trip with Andreas Steindl) and then ticking off all four of the Matterhorn’s ridges in just 16 hours and 4 minutes. Later that year, he took his skills to the Himalayas and broke the record for climbing Manaslu, completing the round trip from base camp to summit and back in 17 hours 43 minutes.

François Cazanelli is sponsored by La Sportiva. ©Matteo Pavana / La Sportiva

In the summer of 2020, he teamed up with Matteo Della Bordella, Francesco Ratti and Isaïe Maquignaz to climb a new route on the very remote Red Pillar of the Brouillard, on the Italian side of Mont Blanc. Appropriately baptised Incredible, the route includes one of the highest 8a pitches in the Mont Blanc range.

In 2021, he ticked Ama Dablam in a mere 5 hours 32 minutes.

Age : 32 
Country : Italy