At 3,000 metres high, the North Face of Jannu (7,710 m) in Nepal has for decades been the dream or nightmare of the most committed and successful Himalayan climbers. The reasons? The sheer size, complexity and steepness of the face, as well as the 800-metre high overhanging wall blocking access to the summit. This infernal Headwall above 7,000 metres is a wall to be tamed by anyone who wants to climb the North Face of Jannu by a direct route, but it has always ended up repelling anyone who wanted to climb it in alpine style as part of a small team. Because it’s too high, too hard, too committed.
The direct north face of Jannu has been the subject of many fantasies, but few attempts – we’ll come back to that later – until now it has only been successfully tackled after a siege lasting more than 50 days by a Russian expedition in 2004.
The whole line followed by Cornell, Marvell and Rousseau ©Coll. Cornell/Marvell/Rousseau
The section in the Headwall, then
This content is only for subscribers. Login or subscribe to access all our articles.