At a time when weather models make it possible to see the slots of good weather several days in advance with a formidable precision, it seems unimaginable to think that climbers could have jumped into such a wall only waiting for the last snowfall to end. Yet, that’s what both teams did. On the one hand, the energetic John Harlin, a former fighter pilot, did his classes at Yosemite. With Royal Robbins or Gary Hemming, they redefine the alpine standards by opening the toughest routes of the moment, Directe américaine on the western face of the Drus (1962), south face of the Fou (1963), and finally Directissime américaine
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