La Croisade, a new mixed climb on Aiguille des Pelerins by Symon Welfringer and Tom Livingstone

La Croisade, a new mixed climb on Aiguille des Pelerins by Symon Welfringer and Tom Livingstone

Above Chamonix, France, the Aiguille des Pélerins is a Mecca for mixed climbing, with what is undoubtedly the most famous mixed route of the Mont Blanc massif, Beyond Good and Evil (Andy Parkin, Mark Twight, 1992). This winter French Symon Welfringer and Brit Tom Livingstone send a new line right of Beyond, a steep route that they named La Croisade. Words by Symon Welfringer. It’s been a while...

Grandes Jorasses’ Gousseault-Desmaison In A Day by Vedrines and Billon : a new era ?

Grandes Jorasses’ Gousseault-Desmaison In A Day by Vedrines and Billon : a new era ?

On February 15, Leo Billon and Benjamin Vedrines climbed the Gousseault-Desmaison on Grandes Jorasses’s North Face in 9 hours and 10 minutes from the bergschrund, starting from Chamonix on foot. On March 4 and 5, in 21 hours of effective climbing and a bivouac, Frédéric Dégoulet and Thomas Auvaro climbed the same route. We talk with them and Stéphane Benoist on the feat of the Billon...


Arctic Ice – Ice Climbing in the north

Arctic Ice – Ice Climbing in the north

These are special places, almost out of time: beyond the Arctic Circle, in the region of Narvik, Norway, the fjords seem asleep by the frost, the villages not so numerous. At the bend in the white...


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Piolets d’Or : to Ukraine with love

It was a beautiful January, the snow covered everything. Located at an altitude of more than two thousand meters in the South Alps, France, the Lautaret Pass road was closed due to avalanches, but that didn’t stop a team of Russian mountaineers from crossing the Pass on foot, in two meters of snow, to come to the Piolets d’Or, which took place in L’Argentière-la-Bessée. The...

Dreaming of Manaslu, but which one?

Lists are one of the most widespread contemporary habits, maintained by the productivity apps that are very much in the air today. Mountaineering is no exception, and this is not new: the 82 “4000”, and of course, the fourteen “8000” climbed for the first time by Reinhold Messner – or the list of the probationary exam to become an aspiring guide. At the beginning of...

Damn, 20 years !

For many, he is an icon with blond or green hair, depending on the mood, an icy mint look and a smile whose scratched incisor reveals his temperament. “In the powder we are all world champions. There’s no one left as soon as it’s steep and a bit frozen, there’s no one left who makes a turn.” This punchline from Bertrand Delapierre’s film, Marco, étoile filante...

Sovereign nature

It’s crazy what a little change gives wings. Those of a kite in this case, a red kite.Accustomed to the hands of climbers, the wiggle of skiers and other alpine balancing acts, my camera went out of its autofocus zone (which is to cameras what the “comfort zone” is to humans). What did he have in his viewfinder to be so confused? A faster athlete than the others? A low-light...

The last chance alpinist

After a few weeks in the mountains, disconnected from the networks and other notifications, I returned to the virtual planet. There, depressing alerts and pictures are blooming: melting glaciers, dried lakes, rock slides and ice falls accelerated, overfrequentation on touristic sites. The disaster scenario is underway. Sad mood at Alpine Mag editorial staff. The big summer ascents have changed...

HIMALAYISM: should history really be rewritten?

Looks like the best himalayan climbers have been shrinking. Eberhard Jurgalski and his investigators* have come to the following conclusion: out of about fifty Himalayan climbers, only three have reached the highest point of the fourteen peaks above 8,000 metres with any certainty. The whole history of the 8000 peaks must be rewritten” says Jurgalski who, after years of investigation with...

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