Skiing down Lhotse without bottled oxygen: Bartek Ziemski’s feat

Skiing down Lhotse without bottled oxygen: Bartek Ziemski’s feat

On May 12, Bartek Ziemski reached the summit of Lhotse, at 8,516 meters, before strapping on his skis to descend to base camp via the extremely steep west couloir, dubbed “the dream line” by the first and only other skiers—Americans—in 2018. Without supplemental oxygen, without a Sherpa, and without fixed ropes installed all the way to the summit, in extremely difficult snow conditions, the...

Garmin fēnix 8 Pro Review: The Outdoor Watch With Built-in inReach

Garmin fēnix 8 Pro Review: The Outdoor Watch With Built-in inReach

The Garmin fēnix 8 Pro takes almost everything from the fēnix 8, but adds what the range was still missing: real communication capability without a smartphone. LTE, satellite, messages, position sharing, SOS: Garmin brings its outdoor watch closer to the inReach universe. To put it simply, a fēnix 8 Pro is a fēnix 8 with a built-in inReach beacon. The same sports tool, the same high-end outdoor...

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Ice as resistance to the modern world

It’s not a scoop,  but it jumped out at me during this immersion in a place that has nothing to offer but its ice. No trails, no view that carries, no wall that climbs. No game, no crystals. Not a moped, not a bistro. Nothing but ice. And avalanches over it when the conditions are not suitable, 99% of the time.  Nothing slams, nothing shines. It’s a modest ice but one that must be...

Cow-boy Ben

Could it be a lonely cowboy lost in his scotch behind the bar of a Chamonix saloon? Or perhaps an adrenaline junkie having a bad trip? A high-level athlete in the middle of a descent? From Mont Blanc, of course. For a few more seconds. Too many. Or could it be the relentless gaze of the mountaineer, and more recently ridge climber, on the Matterhorn, the Eiger, and the Grandes Jorasses? Read...

Everest in 5 days, including xenon gas and testosterone

Everest has fallen. It was literally taken over by four soldiers dressed in black, in their attempt at speed ascent: Garth Miller, Alastair Carns, Anthony Stazicker, and Kev Godlington. In the race for Everest and novelty, Lukas Furtenbach has set the bar very high. A few weeks ago, we told you how the Austrian guide planned to take four clients to the summit of Everest (8848 m) in seven days,...

Avalanches: thank you for staying out of trouble

It’s a sensitive subject. For the victims above all: mourning a death in an avalanche is simply unbearable. The death of a 14-year-old teenager in Les Arcs on 25 December, that of Swiss snowboarder Sophie Rédiger two days earlier, and the more recent death of an off-piste skier at La Norma, all made headlines in the general press. It’s as if the contrast with the almost obligatory...

Jost Kobusch’s determination Everest solo in winter

Among the host of Everest ascents and a list of increasingly various records, there remains one never-before-done climb that really deserves attention. It meets four criteria that can only be described as ultimate: solo, in winter, without supplementary oxygen and by a route other than the normal one. Although climbs have already been made in each of these categories, the combination of the four...

Their First Ascent: how they do it… and how they tell it

It’s a popular drawing by French artist Samivel published in his collection Sous l’oeil des choucas in 1937. The first box of the strip shows two mountaineers climbing a small, debonair peak in bright sunshine, one of them with his hands in his pockets. In the second and last box, the same two climbers are grappling with a tapering pinnacle under a threatening sky. Subtitle: Their...

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Painting the mountains, full movie

The Patagonian mountains attract the best climbers, but more rarely skiers, and for good reason: the tawny granite spires that streak across the skies of El Chalten are big walls where there is...