Thierry Renault: A Tribute to a Master of Style
From the 1980s through the 1990s, Thierry Renault was one of France’s finest alpinists. He was also, quite simply, one of its best climbers: third at Bardonecchia in 1985, Renault freed major granite routes in the Mont Blanc massif, climbed 7c and even 8a at 4,000 metres, then helped push ice climbing into a new grade — Grade 7 — on the ephemeral waterfalls of the Fer-à-Cheval, with La Lyre....
Soline Kentzel, first woman to complete the free ascent of Darbellay on Petit Clocher du Portalet in Switzerland
After Golden Gate on El Capitan, Le Voyage at Annot and a solo ascent of The Nose, Soline Kentzel has added another historic line to her résumé. The French climber has just completed La Darbellay on the north face of the Petit Clocher du Portalet, on the Swiss side of the Mont Blanc massif. First climbed in 1962 by Michel and Daniel Darbellay and freed in 1989 by Philippe Steulet, the route...
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World Climbing Postpones Decision on Israel’s Suspension
Meeting in an extraordinary general assembly on Thursday, July 23, World Climbing’s member federations were expected to consider suspending Israel, Russia, and Belarus, eleven days after a large...
How French mountaineer Nicolas Jean set a new FKT on La Meije, an iconic and challenging Alpine peak
Setting out at 8:30 a.m. from the church in La Grave—a mecca for French freeriding—Nicolas Jean returned there at 12:41 p.m. after crossing La Meije in 4 hours and 11 minutes, nearly half an hour...
French Annabelle Bouchardon has just completed the first female solo ascent of the American Direct on the west face of the Drus
At 24, French climber Annabelle Bouchardon has just completed the first female solo ascent of the American Direct on the west face of the Drus. Three days, two bivouacs on the wall, a storm at the...
Nanga Parbat: Andrzej Bargiel Skis His Fifth Pakistani 8,000er
Andrzej Bargiel has successfully skied down Nanga Parbat (8,126 m) without the use of supplemental oxygen. The Polish ski mountaineer is now the first person to have completed ski descents of all...
Black Diamond Distance LT 1100 headlamp
There was a time when a 300-lumen headlamp was more than enough for running after dark. But the rise of long-distance ultras, increasingly technical mountain terrain, and the growing habit of...
Drus West Face: Three Days to Free Climb A Big Wall in Bonatti’s Shadow
Opened in winter 2007 by Martial Dumas and Jean-Yves Fredriksen, on a face transformed by the collapse of the Bonatti Pillar, the Voie des Papas has retained the particular aura of the...
Farewell Guillaume Pierrel
Guillaume Pierrel has died in the mountains. Writing those words feels almost impossible. Guillaume was a friend. He was swept away by an avalanche in Pakistan. He was a mountain guide, skier,...
Slovenian climber Janja Garnbret becomes the first woman to complete “Bibliographie,” 9b+ at Ceuse
Janja Garnbret has just completed “Bibliographie,” a 9b+ route, in Céüse, in France. The Slovenian climber has made the first female ascent of this major route, which was established by Alex Megos...
Farewell Andy
I remember Andy Lewis perched on a ledge of the Jonte cliffs in the south of France, back when highlining had ceased to be just a climbers’ pastime and had become a world of its own. It was the...
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From Everest to Depression : Cory Richards, His Journey To Calm The Chaos Within
He climbed Everest without oxygen, and completed the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II. A Nat Geo photographer and himalayist, Cory Richards is a survivor in more ways than one. His...
Painting the mountains, full movie
The Patagonian mountains attract the best climbers, but more rarely skiers, and for good reason: the tawny granite spires that streak across the skies of El Chalten are big walls where there is...
Ice climbing : the new guidebook for Briancon, the French Ice Climbing Mecca
350 pages, 850 ice and mixed routes: it’s been a long wait, but not in vain! Twenty years have passed since the previous topo, and now the new guidebook for ice climbing around Briancon,...
Their First Ascent: how they do it… and how they tell it
It’s a popular drawing by French artist Samivel published in his collection Sous l’oeil des choucas in 1937. The first box of the strip shows two mountaineers climbing a small, debonair...
















