Eiger: Fay Manners and Roger Schäli Open Solar Eclipse, a New 33-Pitch Route on the North Face
Between July 27 and August 13, Fay Manners and Roger Schäli established Solar Eclipse, a new 900-metre, 33-pitch route on the north face of the Eiger. They spent eighteen days working on the project, including thirteen consecutive days on the wall. Graded up to 7c (5.12d), with mandatory climbing up to 7a (5.11d), the route has yet to be climbed entirely free and stands out for its serious...
Mont Blanc, The Impossible Mountain
It is a cruel irony. 240 years ago, Jacques Balmat and Michel-Gabriel Paccard reached the summit of Mont Blanc for the first time. On the 8th of August, 1786, after years of attempts, the impossible became possible. A mountain that had until then been viewed only from the valley made history. 1786 marked the birth of mountaineering—with the exception of Mont Aiguille, of course. Two hundred and...
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How French mountaineer Nicolas Jean set a new FKT on La Meije, an iconic and challenging Alpine peak
Setting out at 8:30 a.m. from the church in La Grave—a mecca for French freeriding—Nicolas Jean returned there at 12:41 p.m. after crossing La Meije in 4 hours and 11 minutes, nearly half an hour...
French Annabelle Bouchardon has just completed the first female solo ascent of the American Direct on the west face of the Drus
At 24, French climber Annabelle Bouchardon has just completed the first female solo ascent of the American Direct on the west face of the Drus. Three days, two bivouacs on the wall, a storm at the...
Nanga Parbat: Andrzej Bargiel Skis His Fifth Pakistani 8,000er
Andrzej Bargiel has successfully skied down Nanga Parbat (8,126 m) without the use of supplemental oxygen. The Polish ski mountaineer is now the first person to have completed ski descents of all...
Black Diamond Distance LT 1100 headlamp
There was a time when a 300-lumen headlamp was more than enough for running after dark. But the rise of long-distance ultras, increasingly technical mountain terrain, and the growing habit of...
Drus West Face: Three Days to Free Climb A Big Wall in Bonatti’s Shadow
Opened in winter 2007 by Martial Dumas and Jean-Yves Fredriksen, on a face transformed by the collapse of the Bonatti Pillar, the Voie des Papas has retained the particular aura of the...
Farewell Guillaume Pierrel
Guillaume Pierrel has died in the mountains. Writing those words feels almost impossible. Guillaume was a friend. He was swept away by an avalanche in Pakistan. He was a mountain guide, skier,...
Slovenian climber Janja Garnbret becomes the first woman to complete “Bibliographie,” 9b+ at Ceuse
Janja Garnbret has just completed “Bibliographie,” a 9b+ route, in Céüse, in France. The Slovenian climber has made the first female ascent of this major route, which was established by Alex Megos...
Farewell Andy
I remember Andy Lewis perched on a ledge of the Jonte cliffs in the south of France, back when highlining had ceased to be just a climbers’ pastime and had become a world of its own. It was the...
Everest: Left behind during the descent, a Sherpa survives six days alone before returning to base camp
He went missing on May 29, during the final hours of the climbing season on Everest. Found alive but suffering from frostbite on June 4 at the base of the Khumbu Icefall, Hillary Dawa Sherpa...
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From Everest to Depression : Cory Richards, His Journey To Calm The Chaos Within
He climbed Everest without oxygen, and completed the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II. A Nat Geo photographer and himalayist, Cory Richards is a survivor in more ways than one. His...
Painting the mountains, full movie
The Patagonian mountains attract the best climbers, but more rarely skiers, and for good reason: the tawny granite spires that streak across the skies of El Chalten are big walls where there is...
Ice climbing : the new guidebook for Briancon, the French Ice Climbing Mecca
350 pages, 850 ice and mixed routes: it’s been a long wait, but not in vain! Twenty years have passed since the previous topo, and now the new guidebook for ice climbing around Briancon,...
Their First Ascent: how they do it… and how they tell it
It’s a popular drawing by French artist Samivel published in his collection Sous l’oeil des choucas in 1937. The first box of the strip shows two mountaineers climbing a small, debonair...
















