Will Gadd, lucid prophet of ice climbing

Will Gadd, lucid prophet of ice climbing

He’s climbed some of the most beautiful icefalls on the planet: Will Gaff is one of those who revolutionized ice and mixed climbing, including the first ascent of Niagara Falls and Hekmcken Falls, the great stalactite-filled overhang in British Columbia. Meet up with Will Gadd in Chamonix, at the Arc’teryx Alpine Academy, where he was happy to pass on his passion. It was a long time...

Luka Lindič, experience first

Luka Lindič, experience first

He has climbed rare peaks – Gasherbrum IV – and pioneered bold ascents from Alaska to Patagonia. Slovenian mountaineer Luka Lindic was present at the Arc’teryx Alpine Academy in Chamonix. It was a great opportunity to listen to his words as an accomplished mountaineer, his eyes and head still full of dreams. Calm in spirit, always focused on future climbing projects, however...


The bystander effect

The bystander effect

The story takes place at 8700 meters, and it’s shocking. On May 21, a huge crowd worthy of a rush-hour subway crowds onto Everest’s summit ridge, below the Hillary Step, a narrow but...


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The suspended life of Evgeni Glazunov

Whether we like it or not, our gaze remains constrained by borders. The ones that separated us from Evgeni Glazunov can be counted in dozens, piling up like opaque filters from our base camp in the French Alps to the far reaches of Siberia. These filters are all the more powerful because Russia is not the most transparent of states, especially in wartime. Yet Glazunov was one of his...

And you, who do you step over?

On July 27, 2023, Mohammed Hassan, a Pakistani porter, died while crossing the Bottleneck on K2, at around 8,200m. This was his first ascent as a high-altitude porter (HAP). The reasons for his fall remain unclear. Hassan may have slipped, been destabilized by a small plate at the edge of the track, or suffered some other physical problem that unbalanced him. Attached to the fixed rope, the...

This mountain is so steep!

I‘m not going to lie to you: I’m completely out of my depth. Obviously more in french Alps than in Pakistan (geographers will understand), since the Nanga Parbat (8126m) where I was lucky enough to spend 7 weeks, and which was the highlight of my summer. It was good, it was beautiful, it was very high, and you’ll soon be able to read about this wonderful expedition with Sophie...

Mont Blanc is neither a stadium nor an airport

On July 9, after his Sea-to-Mont-Blanc record, an Italian athlete was brought down from the summit by helicopter. A disrespectful attitude towards the mountain and other climbers. In an open letter published in the meantime, Mountain Wilderness, Chamonix mayor Éric Fournier and Saint-Gervais mayor J-M. Peillex also condemn this procedure, and reserve the right to take legal action against the...

Everest 70th First Ascent Anniversary !

Everest is seventy years old. On 29 May 1953, two human beings stood for the first time on the Roof of the World, the highest mountain of all. History is not made up of dates, but of men and women who, like you and me, have a very specific relationship with time. Our own memory, but also the one we know from our parents or grandparents. My father was eight years old when Everest was finally...

The snow leopard of too many

Basically, we can think that it is not serious, that it is only an image, and moreover on a theme that does not hurt anyone: the beauty of the world. So why not let yourself be carried away? We think just the opposite. Of course, image manipulation has existed since photography itself appeared. Nothing very new. And yet. These images of fake snow leopard and fake mountains will have gone around...

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