
James Pearson climbs Parthian Shot and the story behind this iconic british route
It’s one of the most famous routes in the UK: on the famous “gritstone”, in trad climbing of course. Parthian Shot, as it’s called, has seen the cream of British climbers come and go over the past two decades, but its recent remarkable ascent by James Pearson deserves a closer look at the history of this route, where you must not fall. Parthian Shot was opened by John...

UTMB 2023 : American dream
Yes, every UTMB goes down in history. What can we expect after the exceptional intensity of 2022? Just as good, if not better. Jim Walmsley becomes the first American to win. Then the event celebrates its 20th anniversary. Queen Courtney Dauwalter becomes the empress of Ultra, winning Western States, Hardrock and her third UTMB. On September 2, 2023, Chamonix smells of the USA and, above all,...
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French Alps : new big route on the south face of La Meije
French Alpinists Benjamin Védrines, Nicolas Jean and Julien Cruvellier de Luze opened a new 650-meter, 27-pitch route on the south face of La Meije. For Alpine Mag, Benjamin Védrines looks back at...

And you, who do you step over?
On July 27, 2023, Mohammed Hassan, a Pakistani porter, died while crossing the Bottleneck on K2, at around 8,200m. This was his first ascent as a high-altitude porter (HAP). The reasons for his fall...

Andrzej Bargiel skis Gasherbrum I & II
Polish skier and mountaineer Andrzej Bargiel climbed and skied Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II on July 19 and 26, 2023. These two ascents and descents on skis are part of his project to climb all 14...

Kristin Harila climbs K2 and the fourteen 8000 in 3 months and 1 day
Norwegian mountaineer Kristin Harila reached the summit of K2 on Thursday, July 27, successfully completing her project, begun on April 26, to climb all 14 peaks over 8,000 meters in less than six...

Broad Peak ski descent for Tom Lafaille and Anna Tybor
On the 19th of July, 2023, Tom Lafaille completed the first French ski descent of Broad Peak without supplementary oxygen. He was accompanied by Polish skier and mountaineer Anna Tybor, being the...

Bivouac or refuge : what’s the best to preserve the environment ?
It’s a question you’ve probably already asked yourself when planning your next mountain adventure. Aside from the price of a night in a refuge or bivouac equipment, and whether or not...

This mountain is so steep!
I‘m not going to lie to you: I’m completely out of my depth. Obviously more in french Alps than in Pakistan (geographers will understand), since the Nanga Parbat (8126m) where I was...

Sorato Anraku (Japan) and Vita Lukan (Slovenia) rule Briancon, 2nd French stage of climbing world cup
Just eight days after the Chamonix stage, Briançon played host to the Lead Climbing World Cup, which took place on the town’s brand-new climbing wall. The atmosphere was fantastic, with two...

Mont Blanc is neither a stadium nor an airport
On July 9, after his Sea-to-Mont-Blanc record, an Italian athlete was brought down from the summit by helicopter. A disrespectful attitude towards the mountain and other climbers. In an open letter...
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Pride and Prejudice: Jon Krakauer’s Chamonix
In the world of “adventure journalism” and mountain journalism in particular, there is a name that imposes itself to all: Jon Krakauer. Remember, it was him who wrote Tragedy on Everest...
The Chamonix Film Festival prize list: The Grand Prix for The Alpinist
For its second edition, the Chamonix Film Festival ends with the awards ceremony in the presence of Conrad Anker, the festival’s patron. The Alpinist was awarded the Grand Prix of the...
The Chamonix Film Festival is back from june 14 to 19, 2022
From June 14 to 19, 2022, the Chamonix Film Festival will be welcoming all mountain lovers and enthusiasts to celebrate its culture and its cinema. After a successful first edition last year, this...
The alpinist: Don’t look down
There are missed appointments that leave their mark. In 2015, I had the chance to discover Squamish, where many high-level climbers were invited by their sponsors to gather at the penultimate temple...